Living in the Past

By lifestyle + travel

Heritage preservation is not confined to Angkor. Across Cambodia, lovingly restored French-Colonial buildings take visitors back to the gracious era of Indochine.When most people think of Cambodia they think of the famous Angkor complex and other celebrated Khmer Temples of Siem Reap. Discovered by the intrepid French explorer Henri Mouhout in 1860, the temple site is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site and attracts thousands of 21st-century tomb raiders. What took Mouhout a year of trekking between Bangkok and Siem Reap, now takes a mere hour thanks to a daily Bangkok Airways flight, and travellers rock up to the site in anything from Tuk Tuks and four-wheel-drive SUVs, to chartered helicopters. The architectural heritage of Cambodia extends beyond the ancient temples, however. Visitors to Cambodia can also see a range of styles of traditional wooden houses, designed perfectly for the climate and which were created out of locally-available wood and other construction materials. Surprisingly for many visitors, Cambodia also has a wealth of charming structures inherited from the French colonial period.Cambodia was a protectorate of France from 1863 to 1953, administered as part of the French colony of Indochina. Cambodia gained independence from France in 1953, but the French left behind a legacy of their time in Cambodia – baguettes, excellent coffee and graceful colonial-era buildings.Unfortunately, the beautiful inherited structures, both traditional and colonial, are often neglected and many are quietly crumbling away. More disturbingly, in the interests of “development”, entire rows of historic buildings are being demolished and replaced by modern constructions absent of character or local relevance. Sadly, as the beautiful and unique historic buildings of Cambodia are disappearing, Cambodia is also losing other aspects of its distinctive culture and character. How Cambodia’s historic buildings have survived until now can be understood by having a quick look at Cambodia’s history. Up until very recently, Cambodia was having a pretty bad run of luck. Actually, the bad luck went on for the last half-millennium or so. Ever since the fall of Angkor in 1431, all its neighbours, plus colonial France, have plundered the once mighty Khmer Empire. After a false dawn of independence in 1953, Cambodia promptly plunged back into the horrors of civil war in 1970, to suffer the Khmer Rouge’s incredibly brutal reign of terror. Only after UN-sponsored elections in 1993 did the country begin to totter back to its feet.But the centuries of conflict had the paradoxical effect of protecting the Temples of Angkor, and the political upheavals in recent times likewise preserved the urban architecture of Cambodia’s cities. With the welcome end to conflict and the opening up of Cambodia to international trade and tourism, have come less welcome, and often destructive, changes.Recognizing the extraordinary wealth of architectural heritage that Cambodia possesses, and which it risks losing, last year UNESCO sponsored a conference on the Preservation of Urban Heritage in Cambodia. This conference concluded that the built environments and architectural concepts of Cambodia can be regarded as “irreplaceable universal heritage” and that preservation of historic buildings is important as these buildings “form a part of the spirit of the people and contribute to their sense of cultural continuity and common memory”. The conference also concluded that in an increasingly uniform world, “the preservation of historic areas can make an outstanding contribution to maintaining and developing the social values and cultural diversity of each nation”.A wave of like-minded hoteliers will have cheered these conclusions, while wondering what took the rest of the world so long to catch on. These low-key developers have taken on the often decaying colonial-era buildings and lovingly transformed them to their former glory. One of the most popular uses for these restored buildings is to convert them into that dreaded thing a ‘boutique hotel’. Here, however, boutique is not a code word for cramped and pretentious, but is used in the sense of offering guests a personalised, authentic experience that can’t be replicated by a five-star hotel chain. These revitalized hotels and guesthouses are places that provide you with a strong sense of place and culture, without resorting to cliché. They are very often run and staffed by their owners who are happy to share their love of the country with their guests and, when combined with the low cost of travel in Cambodia, they offer guests a holiday experience like no other.To explore in depth the grandeur of these buildings, it is worthwhile taking a tour of the country to see how the building styles were adapted to particular locales and climates. These buildings, properly restored, offer a wealth of information and insight into the era of ‘Indochine’ and a chance to experience past lives.BATTAMBANGLA VILLA HOTELLocated on the banks of the river Sangker in the town of Battambang in the west of Cambodia, La Villa, pictured above, is a serene haven. Battambang is the second largest city in Cambodia and boasts an extensive collection of fine old houses, built when the town was a prosperous river trading port. La Villa was built in the 1930’s for a wealthy local merchant, but the house was subsequently taken over by the invading Vietnamese in the mid-70s, followed by a Khmer Rouge General, before falling into disrepair and being taken over by squatters. In 2004, the property came up for sale and a young couple, Dimitri and Lien Bouvet, bought it, having seen its potential. After an extensive renovation, this six-room hotel has won fans with its art-deco style and authentic 30s charm complete with vintage fittings and walls decorated with historical photographs of Cambodia.La Villa has a very reasonable bar and restaurant attached where guests can choose from the European or Asian menu (prices range from between USD 3 and USD 6.50), plus an extensive cocktail menu, dining either in the garden, on the terrace or in the air conditioned comfort of the restaurant proper.N 185 Pom Romchek 5 Kom, Rattanak Srok Battambang Tel: + 855 12 991 801lavilla@online.com.kh, lavilla-battambang.comRooms from USD 50 per nightSIEM REAPFOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB (FCC) ANGKORCentrally located and only minutes away from the shopping/nightlife venues in the Old Market District, the FCC, pictured above, on the Siem Reap River occupies the grounds of what was once the French ambassador’s residence, and the 40-year-old Art Deco-style residence building is the stunning centrepiece of the property. The renovation of the rooms and suites express a modern interpretation of Cambodian heritage, mixing clean architectural lines and soft, suffused lighting with breezy tropical ambience and a friendly, comfortable atmosphere – the exterior architecture may be period, but the interiors are distinctly Asian moderne. All contemporary comforts are laid on – huge terrazzo baths, flat-screen TVs and free high-speed Internet. Downtime can be taken in the black-tiled salt water pool or at Visaya Spa. Pokambor Ave Tel: +855 63 760 280 angkor@fcccambodia.com, fcccambodia.comRooms from USD 120 to USD 270RAFFLES GRAND HOTEL D’ANGKORWith 131 rooms, Raffles, pictured left, can hardly be said to fall into the ‘boutique hotel’ category; still, for sheer colonial grandeur it can’t be missed and is almost a destination unto itself. First established in 1931, Raffles provided accommodation for the first wave of travellers for whom the Angkor temples was an obligatory stopover. Reopened in 1997 after restoration, the hotel resumes its position as the premier digs in Cambodia. Balancing authenticity against museum-like formality, the airy rooms with their classic French windows and doors and black & white tiled entrances are equally lavishly equipped with antiques and Khmer objets d’arts, and the latest in discreetly located high-tech facilities. The courtyard pool is like stepping into the French Riviera, and the walls of the Spa almost groan beneath their burden of international awards. 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle, Khum Svay Dang Kum, Siem ReapTel: +855 63 963 888siemreap@raffles.com, siemreap.raffles.comRooms from USD 310 per nightPHNOM PENHFOREIGN CORRESPONDENTS CLUB (FCC) PHNOM PENHThe sister-establishment to the FCC Siem Reap, FCC Phnom Penh, pictured above, may not be quite as beautifully made-up as its sibling, but what it may lack in décor it more than makes up for in view and character. Centrally located on the waterfront, the former mansion now offers seven rooms, each named after famous Angkorean temples. The comfortably appointed rooms here are compact but airy; eastern facing rooms overlook the convergence of Cambodia’s Tonle Sap with the majestic Mekong, while the western-oriented face the dazzling sunsets over the National Museum. All are outfitted with high-speed internet connection and television and cable access.Since the establishment opened in 1993, journalists, diplomats, movie stars and travellers in the know have used it as a watering hole, landmark and preferred residence – a place to swap war stories, compare views on the latest events in the capitol, chase up a lead or just a retreat from the heat. Make sure to spend an evening in the upstairs bar, or sunset terrace; your fellow guests are likely to be just as interesting as the local landmarks.363 Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh Tel: +855 23 210 142phnompenh@fcccambodia.com, fcccambodia.comFrom USD 55 to USD 80 per nightTHE PAVILIONRun by Alexis de Suremain (the same man who runs the super cool Elsewhere bar), this restored villa, which blends Khmer and French Colonial building styles, dates from the 1920s and is reputed to have a royal history. Legend has it that it was built for the dowager Queen Kossamak, mother of the retired King, who wanted to spend her twilight years near her favourite temple, nearby Wat Botum. The Pavilion, pictured below, has 10 guest rooms in varying sizes and shapes, all equipped with air conditioning, free WiFi access, televisions and the obligatory ‘period’ fixtures – mosquito nets draping four-poster beds and bakelite fans. If you can, try and secure one of the three rooms with balconies overlooking the pool and gardens, which are spacious and an excellent choice for families travelling with children. Unlike other properties, it has never fallen into disrepair as such (though it narrowly escaped demolition last year), instead being added to and refurbished over the years with varying degrees of success. One thing that no traveller will quibble with is the transformation of the garden area into a lush densely foliated oasis, smelling of jasmine and plumeria, complete with swimming pool and lazy-days wooden recliners. If you like The Pavilion, you’ll love Elsewhere, which comprises a garden bar with a small swimming pool, a restaurant and a shop all located in a beautifully restored French-colonial villa, and is reputed to host the biggest party in town on the first Friday of every month.THE PAVILION227, Street 19Tel: +855 (0) 12 344 258thepavilion@online.com.kh, pavilion-cambodia.comRooms from USD 50 – USD 65 per nightELSEWHERE175, Street 52Tel: + 855 (0) 23 211 348RATANAKIRITERRES ROUGES LODGELocated in the extreme northeast of Cambodia, the mountainous, densely forested area of Ratanakiri is the country’s secret garden; a safe home to some of Asia’s most endangered wildlife and still inhabited by diverse ethnic groups. Standing out against this rugged backdrop is the glorious Terres Rouge Lodge, pictured above, formerly the Governor’s mansion. Standing on the edge of Lake Banlung, this immensely comfortable hotel quirkily evokes the history of French colonialism from the grand chandelier in the dining room to the recruitment posters in the bathrooms exhorting young Frenchmen to join the war in Indochina. The Lodge’s 14 rooms are all unique; individually decorated with a combination of antiques and objects made by the local ethnic groups, while Time Asia voted the remarkably well stocked saloon “the best bar in the middle of nowhere”. Chenda and Pierre-Yves Clay run the hotel – Pierre first came to Cambodia as part of the UN-sponsored peacekeeping force in 1993 and is extremely knowledgeable about the local cultures and environment, leading tours into the surrounding wilderness. Though Ratanakiri may be a far flung outpost, there’s lots to do for fans of the great outdoors – hiking, fishing, four-wheel-driving adventures, trips to the local zircon mines and excursions to local villages are just a few of the options that the Lodge can organise for you.Tel: + 855 (0) 23 215 651 (Phnom Penh),+ 855 (0) 75 975 051 (Terres Rouges Lodge, Banlung)terresrouges2@camnet.com.kh, ratanakiri-lodge.comRooms from USD 30 to USD 70 per nightKAMPOTBOKOR MOUNTAIN LODGE RIVERSIDEThe small town of Kampot, perched in the hills and still graced by some lovely examples of small scale colonial-mercantile architecture, is home to the Bokor Mountain Lodge.The Lodge has recently undergone a dramatic and extensive refurbishment and is now open as a hotel, bar and restaurant; nestling on the banks of the Prek Kampong Bay River, which flows into the Gulf of Thailand. The Lodge is set amid evocative crumbling French colonial architecture. Guests can choose from double occupancy rooms or a suite, each with ensuite facilities, air-con, fans, wireless Internet access and cable TV. The neatly turned out rooms are simply decorated with clean lines and local materials.Kampot is a three-hour run from Phnom Penh and is a great stopping place for those on the way to Sihanoukville’s beaches. With the dramatic backdrop of Bokor Mountain and the seaside town of Kep (nicknamed the ‘French Riviera of the East’) nearby, there is as much or as little to do as you please. For the adventurously inclined, the Lodge can arrange bicycle, motorbike and four-wheel-drive trips to the Bokor Mountain Reserve, where the colonial ruins – including a casino, church and settlement, provide plenty to explore, and an eerie backdrop for a picnic. Hiking is popular in this area – wildlife and waterfalls abound, and the views from some of the hilltops are spectacular. The more sedentary might prefer the leisurely cruising on the river.Tel: + 855 (0) 33 932 314bokorlodge@gmail.com, bokorlodge.comRooms from USD 15 to USD 36CAMBODIA TO GO

How To Get ThereThere are direct flights to the capital of Phnom Penh from Bangkok (Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways), Saigon (Vietnam Airlines), Singapore (Silk Air) and Vientiane (Laos Aviation). Cambodia can also be reached by road from Thailand and Vietnam. Or by river boat or sea cruise.When to GoThe best time to visit Cambodia is during the cool season which runs from November to February when the temperature drops into the mid to high 20s. In the hill country the temperatures over the winter period can go much lower, and may even approach freezing, so pay attention to your itinerary. The hottest period runs from March to May, after which the monsoon rains arrive and humidity levels climb.VisasVisitors are now able to obtain their Cambodian visa upon arrival at the airport in Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. Make sure you have the following – a copy of your passport, a (3 x 4 cm) passport photograph and USD 20 to pay for the visa.