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PLUS...BE ONE OF THE FIRST 10 SUBSCRIBERS TO RECEIVE A "DUOBRIGHT TREATMENT" VOUCHER FOR BRIGHTER FACIAL SKIN AT LOLLANA CLINIC, BANGKOK,VALUED AT THB 6,000 (USD 200) PLUS ... BE THE FIRST SUBSCRIBER TO RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY ONE-NIGHT STAY IN PREMIER ROOM WITH CLUB BENEFITS AND THAI SET DINNER ON APSARA DINING CRUISE FOR 2 PERSONS FROM BANNYAN TREE BANGKOK
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By LIFESTYLEANDTRAVEL
Kantang — The Old TrangTrang’s true origin is still a mystery. We only know roughly that it began as a satellite port in Kantang district. It was only after Phraya Ratsadanupradit became the city’s governor that the faraway town to the south flourished and made its mark on Thailand’s map as an important trading hub connecting sea and land via the extended seaports and railway system. Though today it is no longer a naval trade centre, the present day Kantang is still full of its original character with piers along Trang River estuary (plus a newly built lighthouse-shaped civic centre) and an array of Sino-Portuguese commercial buildings with occupants of multi-national descendants.Visiting Kantang is easy: all you need to do is follow Highway No. 403 (also called Kantang Road) down south from Trang city district or simply take a local bus from the city centre. After about 20 minutes, you will be greeted with Thailand’s first Para Rubber Tree to your right, marking your entry to the town. Or if you want to do it in the classic way, take the daily train from Trang Railway Station to the first station and Andaman coast’s railway terminal, Kantang Railway Station (Na Khai Road, Kantang District, Trang). The station itself, with its newly-painted mustard yellow and cocoa brown, is also among the most photogenic buildings in Trang. Though compact in size, its original design in Thai semi-colonial blend is well preserved along with its history as can be seen inside at the station display and the Library Train across the yard.Just five minutes away from the station is the historical site of Phraya Ratsadanupradit Mahison Phakdi Museum (1 Khai Phithak Road, Kantang District, Trang). This two-storey wooden mansion serves as both museum and monument for the much loved former governor run by successors of his Na Ranong family. Stepping into the mansion is like stepping back in time. Its rooms are filled with Renaissance furniture and utensils are kept close to their original state alongside walls of faded black and white prints, a small altar and the super realistic waxwork of the first owner — so real that it might give you a chill.Back on the sunny street, stroll along the Trang river sidewalk. Stop by a local diner and treat yourself to dim sum or curry with roti bread of seafood. Chat with the friendly shop keepers. And should you be invited in for a cup of tea, please do not hesitate to join the table.Morning Tea, evening coffeeFor what it offers, Trang is probably the gastronomic capital of southern Thailand. Though it’s a small town, one can find a good variety of cuisine from the most delicate Chinese crossovers and exotic Muslim culinary treats to tongue-burning regional specialties (caution: you are warned!) with a good mix of Western dishes here and there. After all, Trang people just love to eat out!Like most southern Thai provinces, the ritual of morning tea has been carried on for ages. Life in Trang starts as early as 3 a.m. Local farmers wake up to tend their rubber trees while vendors set up their stalls in the market. Done with their morning duties, people then flow to one of the neighbouring diners or their favourite Tae Tiam (teahouse) for morning break. People enjoy their daily conversation with friends and family over a hearty dim sum breakfast then disappear from the scene even before the radio sings the national anthem at 8 a.m. The crowd will come back again after work and be served a different menu. They take a load off and enjoy talking shop over a light meal and sweet treats accompanied by their choice of caffeinated drink to lubricate the conversation.Here, you cannot go wrong with dim sum. Teahouses, large and small, with stacks of steamers in front of the shops, can be found on most corners of the town. The fun part is to pick your menu from the piling stacks of pre-filled steaming baskets in front of the shop. But if there are none, wait until the waiter lines up the entire menu in front of you. Don’t be shocked by the amount of baskets they put on your table: you will be charged only for what you eat. Order a cup of Thaimilk tea or sweetened coffee to go with the food. Like the steamed dumplings, Trang’s famous roast pork is not to be missed. Walk to the local market where you’ll find dozens of shops M putting up slabs of golden brown chops on the table alongside gigantic cutting boards and cleavers. Slices of the freshly roasted, crispy skin pork are perfect for any meal of the day — even as a coffee snack. But mind you, it runs out very quickly. Rumour has it that the best roast pork in town starts selling and finishes before 6 a.m.!If you prefer a more spicy touch, variations of curries and spicy soups are available. Some might find it rather pungent, but those who take up the challenge will be rewarded with the unique tastes of herb and spice combinations. Signature to the southern region, Kaeng Tai Pla (extra spicy fish gut soup with grilled fish and vegetables) and Kanom Chin Nam Ya Pak Tai (rice noodles with yellow fish curry, served with a range of accompaniments from fresh and pickled vegetables to dried fish) are among the top contenders on the must-try list while variations of curry served with either roti bread or rice are also local favourites.Yet there is more to explore along the street. Keep in mind that the dining experience is not just about the type of food they serve. Restaurants may come in different sizes and shapes, as large as a 300-seater to age-old wooden stalls without a single table, yet all quickly filled up at any meal time, especially early morning. Trust your gut feeling and let yourself jump into the local crowd.Gems of Andaman SeaTrang boasts a spectacular natural treasure of over 100 kilometres of coastline of white sandy beaches and over 40 islands of pristine beauty.Kantang, along with Sikao district to the north, forms Hat Chao Mai National Park covering a number of islands and beaches in its area of over 230 square metres. The national park itself takes its name from Chao Mai Beach to the south where you can take a short ferry ride to Libong Island, the non-hunting area and a paradise for both sea birds and dugongs (believed to be the last herd in Thailand).Pak Meng Beach is where most people start and end their day trips to those gems of the Andaman sea. Some of the islands might not appear exceptional above water but are plentiful with their underwater resources. There are several famous snorkelling spots, such as Ko Chauk, Ko Waen, Ko Ma, Ko Ngai and several others for you to choose from. You might want to set foot on one of Andaman’s most beautiful islands, Ko Kradan, and enjoy its soft powdery beach and panoramic view of the viridian sea. Finish the trip by swimming through the channel of Ko Mook’s curving waterway through the amazing Emerald Cave and enjoy the hidden wonder of Mother Nature.If you’d like a different beach adventure experience, move further south to the twin islands of Ko Laoliang. The islands are situated in the vicinity of Mu Ko Petra National Park in Palian District (sharing space with La Ngu district in Satun province) along with over 20 other islands. A combination of safari-style camping and marine adventure, Ko Laoliang island is a one-stop destination for diving (both snorkelling and scuba diving), rock climbing, bouldering, Kayaking and lying in a hammock on the beach.Bring along your trusty shades and swimsuit. Make sure you have enough sunscreen and get ready to be soaked with sand, sea and sun.Festive TownEach year Trang holds large numbers of festivals and ceremonies to commemorate its strong bond with its heritage and to promote the best that the city has to offer to visitors and its people. Among the notables are:underwater wedding ceremonyHeld during the week just before St. Valentine’s day, this year marks the 16th anniversary of Trang’s most fascinating event since the first couple had their dream came true getting married 40 feet under the Andaman Sea in 1996. The event was a world record in 2000 for the largest underwater wedding ceremony and the number of loving divers continues to rise.Chinese New YearCelebrating the city’s Chinese cultural legacy, the first day of spring on lunar month marks the beginning of the new zodiac year according to Chinese belief. Streets and buildings in major districts will be lit with red lanterns while members of Chinese community greet each other with joy, wishing all a prosperous year ahead. Time for firecrackers, lion dances and festive food!Vegetarian FestivalVegetarian Festival is the grandest annual event of the town. For nine days and nights starting from the first day of the ninth month of the Chinese lunar calendar, over 100,000 people, both locals and visitors, observe this spiritual cleansing process by refraining from eating meat and certain types of vegetables for the purpose of bringing good fortune to themselves and their families. Chinese temples and shrines feature acrobatic performances and magical feats throughout the festival. Trang Food Festival Solid proof of their love of food, the festival is held from 30 March-3 April of every year at Somdech Phra Srinagarindra Park. The bestrestaurants from all corners of town gather in one place to promote special dishes at discount prices. Taste the flavours of Trang on just one day!Trang Roast Pork FestivalIf you never make it in time for the shop or always miss that last cut, here is your chance. Get your sample of freshly roasted and slightly spiced succulent crispy skin signature Trang food and take home a chunk or two. The festival is held every September.Trang Cake FestivalThe festival aims to promote Trang’s best-selling souvenir. It is well known for its no frosting and minimal filling recipe that has been passed down for generations. Scheduled every August, an array of cakes are lined up along the street in front of Trang Railway Station for cake lovers to choose and shop from their favourite bakeries
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Issue 54: Mar / Apr 2013
