An Interview With The Guy Behind The Oris Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115
By Lifestyle+Travel
Oris’s latest watch powered by an in-house developed calibre is a landmark design. The skeletonised Calibre 115 movement opens up the 10-day power reserve and non-linear power reserve indicator to reveal how they work. It’s a contemporary take on luxury that highlights the eternal value of a beautifully crafted Swiss Made mechanical watch. Oris’s Senior Product Design Engineer, Lukas Bühlmann was telling us how everything came together.
What was the design brief behind the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115?
Ultimately, the brief was to propel Oris Aviation watches into the next generation. We made pilot’s watches for American servicemen in the Second World War. But what does a contemporary, luxury Oris
pilot’s watch look like?
What were the biggest obstacles to delivering that brief?
One of the hardest things was figuring out how to maintain the balance between the formal language of the case and the movement. In other words, how do you design a modern watch that is not a fashion watch? We wanted to create something contemporary that would retain its relevance as fashions change.
Where did you look for inspiration?
Aviation and architecture. The idea behind the watch started with the movement, and we gave this a strong architectural look. The skeletonised barrel draws your eye first and then the bridges, and then you start seeing the detail in the wheels.The case is more like a stealth plane. There’s an exciting interplay between the movement and the static elements.
There’s a futuristic quality to the design – is that deliberate?
I wouldn’t call it futuristic, but it is a future-driven design. Oris has a long pilot’s watch history and you can see that in the design, which is important. It also shows Oris’s competence, and the long-term value of a beautifully designed and manufactured mechanical object.
Do you think of this as a pilot’s watch?
It’s certainly not a conventional pilot’s watch. For example, this is the first Oris pilot’s watch without any numerals on the dial. But the aviation DNA is still there in the details. We used titanium for the case, for example, because it’s very light. What really makes this a pilot’s watch is its technical look. Technology is the driving force behind aviation today.
What design considerations are there with a skeletonised watch?
First and foremost is technical feasibility. This is a designer’s constant companion during the design process. The design and the functionality have to work together. Furthermore, you have to think on several levels at the same time, so that when all the components come together, you get the design you set out to create. Overall, because of these considerations, the job takes longer, too.
Sometimes, those considerations must create problems?
Yes, of course. Sometimes you want to design something one way, but you quickly realise that it’s not technically feasible. It’s about adapting. The better you understand the design philosophy, the quicker you’ll find solutions.
What does this watch say about Oris’s take on luxury?
The truth is that for Oris, luxury is about being able to go your own way. That’s why it’s our strapline. In practice, that means we design watches for people who ask questions and want to experience life and cultures. Our watches become faithful companions for life’s adventures. Wherever you go, your Oris watch will go with you.
What makes this a good design?
The small details – every case facet, the way the bracelet integrates into the case, the decision to drop the numerals, the crown protection, the bridges, the turbine blade bezel, and so on. It’s the way these come together so that you don’t see them as small details, you see them as part of a whole that makes this design unique.
Do you work to the design mantra that ‘form follows function’?
A watch should be meaningful and feature useful complications, and the appearance of the watch should reflect what it does. But form follows function is too rigid. Again, if ‘Go your own way’ is the philosophy, you can’t be bound by one set of rules..
What does the Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 say about Oris design?
I think it says two things. It says we’re not afraid to push boundaries. And also that we’re good at combining talents. A team of 10 people were involved in the design of the movement, case and bracelet. Like the watch, many small parts came together to create something heroic. We’re all really proud of the result.
In detail
Case Multi-piece titanium case
Size 44.00 mm (1.732 inches)
Dial Skeletonised
Luminous material Hands and indices filled with Super-LumiNova®
Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, double-sided anti-reflective coating
Case back Titanium, screwed, see-through sapphire glass
Operating devices Titanium screw-in security crown
Strap/bracelet Multi-piece titanium bracelet with ‘lift’ clasp; black leather strap with titanium ‘lift’ clasp
Water resistance 10 bar (100 m)
Movement
Number Calibre 115 (skeletonised)
Functions Centre hands for hours and minutes, small seconds between 7 and 8 o’clock, non-linear power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock, fine timing and stop-second devices
Winding Hand-wound
Power reserve 240 hours
By Lifestyle+Travel
Those Interested in Diving Watches Can’t Help But Come Across This Brand!
The Oris Aquis is a high-performance diver’s watch that delivers exceptional detail and functionality without compromising on style or value. This year, Oris is launching new Aquis model with a new oceanic blue gradient dial that joins the collection of 39.5mm models. Its water resistant to 30 bar (300 m) and feature uni-directional rotating bezel with Tungsten insert for accurately and safely measuring dive times. It is available on stainless steel metal bracelets enhanced by Oris’s clasp-extension system that can be quickly adjusted so the watch fits over a wetsuit. Case Material Multi-piece stainless steel case uni-directional rotating bezel with Tungsten insert Size 39.50 mm, 1.56 inches Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside Case back Stainless steel, screwed, see-through mineral glass Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown Water resistance 30 bar (300 m) Interhorn width 21 mm Thickness 12.6 mm Weight 145 gr. metal bracelet Movement Number Oris 733 (base Sellita SW 200-1) Dimensions 25.60 mm, 111⁄2’’’ Functions Hours, minutes and central sweep seconds hands, date with quick setting, self-winding mechanism with ball bearing, stop second device, date window at 6 o’clock Winding Automatic Power reserve 38 hours Vibrations 4 Hz (28’800 A/h) Jewels 26 Dial Design Blue gradient Luminous material Super-LumiNova® Indices Applied Strap Material Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet with folding clasp with extension For more information, please contact Trocadero Time Tel. 02 163 0555.
By Lifestyle+Travel
Oris Lake Baikal Limited Edition: A Watch On A Mission
As we begin a new decade, the vital role of water has never been more apparent. While some parts of the world suffer because of droughts and fires, others are washed away by filthy flood waters. And according to a joint report by the World Health Organization and UNICEF last year, 785 million people still don’t have clean water close to home. At Oris, they believe they have a shared duty to behave responsibly and to look after our world and our climate. They are on a mission to bring ‘Change for the Better’, working with non-profit organisations and conservations agencies all over the world, with a particular focus on water, the oceans and the life they contain. They believe that if they don’t act now, it may be too late, but that together we can make a real difference. With that in mind, Oris is proud to present the Oris Lake Baikal Limited Edition. It’s based on the high- performance Oris Aquis diver’s watch and made in partnership with the Lake Baikal Foundation. Sales of the watch will help raise funds in support of ‘Point No.1’, a Lake Baikal conservation project run by the Scientific Research Institute of Biology at Irkutsk State University that’s also the longest-running and most detailed environmental water monitoring project in scientific history. ‘Point No.1’ is supported by the foundation. Siberia’s Lake Baikal, which scientists believe is 25 million years old, is hugely important. It holds 20 per cent of the world’s fresh lake water reserves. It’s the deepest lake in the world at 1,642 metres, some 300 rivers flow into it, and it’s home to thousands of species of endemic plants and animals. But it’s under threat from man-made pollution, much of it created by careless industry. ‘Water is the source of life,’ says Rolf Studer, Oris Co-CEO. ‘We believe passionately in conserving it for future generations, and also in acting responsibly as citizens of the world to bring positive change. Every year we seek out pioneering organisations who share these values and work to protect the world’s water. A watch on a mission The Oris Lake Baikal Limited Edition supports a vital research project ‘We’re very proud to be working with the Lake Baikal Foundation and to be supporting the work of ‘Point No.1’ as it continues its vital research and raises awareness of pollution and the urgent need for clean water.’ Oris Lake Baikal Limited Edition Oris’s latest limited edition is based on the Aquis diver’s watch. Only 1,999 pieces will be made, marking the year Russia passed the Baikal Law In detail Case Multi-piece stainless steel case, unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert Size 43.50 mm (1.713 inches) Dial Gradient blue Luminous material Hands an indices filled with Super-LumiNova® Top glass Sapphire, domed on both sides, anti-reflective coating inside Case back Stainless steel, screwed, special Lake Baikal insert and engravings Operating devices Stainless steel screw-in security crown with crown protection Bracelet Multi-piece stainless steel metal bracelet, folding clasp with extension Water resistance 30 bar (300 m) Movement Number Oris 733 Functions Centre hands for hours, minutes and seconds, date window at
By Lifestyle+Travel
This is How Gucci Celebrates Chinese Zodiac Year of The Rat
In honour of the upcoming Chinese zodiac year of the rat, Gucci has created two new Grip watches showing Mickey Mouse on the dial. The Disney character’s eyes are also visible in the dark thanks to the use of Luminova. Both timepieces reflect the signature look of the Grip line, with a streamlined silhouette and two windows on the dial indicating the hour and minute. The 35mm edition brings together a yellow gold PVD case and a GG Supreme canvas strap, while the 38mm version is crafted in steel with the GG logo engraved on the bracelet. The Grip watch is inspired by the world of skateboarding. It fits snugly around the wrist, much like sneakers stick to the grip tape on a skateboard.